Andy Irons Surfs Because…

posted by / Blogs / August 16, 2010

When I was young I surfed:

because Kelly Slater did it…
because it was hyped…
because it got chicks…
because it was the party…
because it got the cool car…

I surf now:

because it’s all about the feeling I get from riding that wave…
because surfing is the only thing that keeps me going…
because I have the will…
because I am always a better person when I come in….

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  • Carr

    Andy is so rad. Good to see him get in touch with his emotions. I want to see Andy blow up Tahiti! Andy #1

  • CJ

    Andy is the Man! great video.
    unbelievable barrel

  • Mik

    Andy Irons is the soul of surfing. No one embodies the free spirit / fearless mindset needed to explore radical maneuvers in the craziest scary places on performance waves that Andy does. He raised the bar for the entire surf community. Kelly included. Kelly inspired Andy, but Andy equally inspired Kelly, and made him better. More capable of going big. Sure, there is the 40ft. wave arena crew, but Andy charges at Waimea too, and that backside pull-in in the Waimea shorepound during the Eddie (Bruce+) was another example of what I am trying to articulate. The mega wave surfers aren’t even remotely as technically capable as AI, nor do that think about taking the shorepound on their back. I sometimes think that Andy was misunderstood regarding his competitiveness. He’s not an uptight guy. He’s just a charger. There’s nothing to apologize for. A competitive surfer should want to win. Bad. You can take all of Dane Reynold’s films and blah blah blah, and dump it as far as I am concerned. But AI’s sections of video are da bomb. I have rewound turn after turn trying to assimilate how he makes his decisions for power carves in the heaviest of places. What makes him think, OK, Now. I’m laying it down HERE!!! And “here’ is a place most people aren’t even dreaming of anything other than getting safely away from. Andy: I am so stoked you are on track. Good luck at Chopes. We will be praying for your safety and victory!!!!!

  • Jimmy

    Whatever the reason just keep doing it! Andy is back son

  • Da Cat

    Mik you make a good case but the guy is tweaked as fuck all. Hearing the stories about him the last 2 years it’s a surprise he’s still sponsored or even breathing. Serious head case and no doubt self destructive. He surfs because…he doesn’t know anything else.

  • colin

    this is the best surf clip i’ve seen in a long time.

  • Hip Hop Harry

    Good for Andy. Sick Cover he just got on Surfing Magazines new issue as well. Now go win the Tahiti so all those haters can stick it!

  • Mik

    da cat: I am a bit older, and I’ve been in dark places too—many of us have. Sometimes it is part of the learning curve. Athletes go through lots of things, especial the extreme sport players. I have no idea of Andy Irons personal life. I don’t listen to gossip, and i hate expose’ jouralism. so for me, I judge the tour surfers (as a former professional within the surf industry) by how they perform. Kelly stands out in so many ways because he made many wise lifestyle decisions, and they are the basis of his dominance. Good habits can carry a man up steep mountains. I am a major Kelly fan too. But Andy, as a surfer, just knocks me out with his full-on charger attitude that is complemented by his power-oriented technique. If Andy takes some of the training ethos of Kelly, and Mick Fanning (another former rager!), including organic foods and Yoga along with strength training, he can be in the mix for another five years, easily.

  • RC

    Andy is so raw. Straight forward and to the point. This is a rad post

  • chris

    i so hope andy wins tahiti just so he can get that winning back in him, be good to see him mixing it up with the top 8.

  • Alex K.

    You can tell Andy really means what he says here, he’s not hiding or spewing a script from Billabong. He’s being Andy and Andy is the shit. Good luck at tahiti brah

  • Diego

    Andy Irons is back for revenge! Top 5 this year for sure

  • Sammy

    His part in the transworld movie is fucked. Left barrel for 10 sedonds easy and then pulls in again, huge carves, still one of the best out there.

  • EB&D

    I hope Teahupo’o is gargantuan and that Andy Irons wins the event and punches a few people for good measure.

  • Aloha Marc

    Andy Died today, and so did a part of so many young surfers heart! His closing statement in this video is “I surf because I always come out a better person” and he helped many become better over the years… even if he didn’t realize it!
    Rest in Peace and Prayers for the Ohana!

  • Smt surf

    Andy is gone but god needed a champ in heaven , catch a wave for me bro in heaven aloha and god bless

  • Pal falzon

    Illigitimate will not be televised.
    Look up Andy Irons in back hand tube riding and there is a photo in under
    the word Definition.