And I am sitting on my veranda at the St. Regis in Nusa Dua, Bali. A warm wind gently tickles and carries with it a cover of Minnie Riperton’s “Loving You” sung by a Balinese woman in the restaurant. Loving you is easy because you’re beautiful. Making love with you is all I want to do.
Today was spent surfing at Bingin on a Damien Hobgood pintail loaned me by Nathan Myers. I surf lefts better because of it. And the day before was spent surfing at Canggu.
Canggu is a dreamy wave. So perfect. So just perfect.
There were multiple surf schools in the water at the same time. Choking the peak with German and with kook. Now, and again, I am a capitalist. I appreciate not only the local Balinese drive to gather their Rupiah but also the Rupiah, and dollar, and Euro and Kroner that are infused into our industry with the purchase of boardshorts and wax and Globe Motleys. Amazing.
Our industry should clearly define the surf-school-allowed waves. And one of those is not Canggu. It is too perfect. So I shall designate, as surf school zones:
- Oceanside (California, USA)
- Pismo Beach (California, USA)
- Waikiki (Hawaii, USA)
- Texas (USA)
- The United States of America’s Eastern Seaboard minus North Carolina (East Coast, USA)
- The state of Victoria (Australia)
- Puerto Rico’s Rincon (Puerto Rico)
- Bali’s Kuta Beach (Indonesia)
- Great Britain (Scotland, England, Wales and part of Ireland)
- Ireland (Ireland)
- Any river wave or tidal bores (Germany, Africa)
Surf school students, go learn our art! Have fun! Buy OAM leashes!
All other surfers? You’re welcome.
I shall be in the Hamptons for 4th of July, celebrating freedom and not surfing since I shall be in a designated surf school zone. More time for seersucker.
God bless the USA. God bless surfing. —Chas Smith