An Unloved Wave

posted by / Editorial / March 19, 2010

Margaret River, WA

Margaret River, WA

By Chas Smith

Margaret River is a famed Western Australian wave. Unlike most here, it is easy to access, I mean drive to, but not easy to surf, I mean paddle to. It is beautiful, geographically. The water is pure and clear. Rocks dot the beach. A steep sandstone bluff hovers above. Gorgeous green hills roll back, east, for eons. It is totally beautiful.

Craig Anderson says, “I’d reckon it’s shit. One word shit. But if I had to give an in depth description I would say a fat left and right. Depends what your after. If you’re after doing cutbacks on a fat wave then it is your wave. I have surfed there a bunch of times and not once have I had any fun. I’d reckon it’s absolutely fucken shit.”

Dion Agius says, “It usually cops all the swell so it is gigantic. Cops all the wind so it is gigantic and messy. Breaks halfway out to sea, breaks fat, and is surrounded by sharks. So it is a fat, messy gigantic wave surrounded by sharks and halfway out to sea.”

Central Coast surfer says, “Today was the first day I’ve ever looked at it. It definitely looks sharky. It also looked kind of fun, but I grew up in shit waves.”

San Clemente surfer Nate Yeomans says, “It’s raw, rugged and rough. Fuck, it’s sick. Oh wait, the wave Margaret River itself? Ummm, challenging. Fuck, it’s a hard wave to surf because…it sucks. It shifts everywhere. It’s far out to sea, backs off and then throws everything. In a nutshell, you never know what’s going on. And there are big sharks who want to eat you.”

Craig Anderson says, “Yeah, I don’t know how you’d have fun out there, eh.”

Book your tickets!

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  • Happy Barracuda

    The locals of Margaret River owe the writer a Emu schooner for helping reduce the visiting surfer population.