Out of Office Reply: Within Jaws

posted by / Blogs / January 6, 2012

Albee Layer, midway through the wave of his life. Sequence: Tracy Craft Leboe

Albee Layer, midway through the wave of his life. Sequence: Tracy Craft Leboe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Out of Office Reply

Much hype has surrounded the recent awakening of the North Pacific. Colorful blobs dancing around Japan and the Aleutians coupled with New Year’s optimism (I’m gonna exercise daily, tell my mom I love her and paddle-in to Jaws) lead to packed lineups from Waimea to Maui to the Mainland and yielded mixed results. Some felt skunked when the predicted perfection was anything but, while others, like Albee Layer, rode historical and giant waves. He was in the right spot — Jaws — among 40 other men, but Albee used his local knowledge to best the pack and pack an inside runner and come out dry on the other end. Oh, local knowledge…you never disappoint.

I chatted with Albee few hours after his super session and as usual, he’s unafraid to make some claims.

 

Taylor: Was it the best of your life?

Albee: Yeah. But I swear if you didn’t see tow guys get way more barreled for years, it would be cooler.

T: Looks pretty cool to me. Was it as clean as it looked?

A: No, that was just a little nugget. Everyone was catching huge north ones out the back that were giant, but not bowling as well.

T: Wow, so you won the heat? I’d heard Wassel did, but by the looks of things it was you.

A: No I didn’t. Wassel got the largest paddle wave ever, but had to go straight.

T: You’re claiming biggest ever?

A: Positive. I almost went over the falls looking at that wave. And had a really close call on one even bigger than that one. So heavy.

T: Was it 60-foot plus faces?

A: Yeah, I’m claiming 30-foot Hawaiian or whatever us weirdoes call waves.

T: You Hawaiians and your cutting waves in half business.

A: Dumbest shit ever.

T: Agreed. What are you going to do tomorrow? Are you going to surf big waves tomorrow?

A: Surf some spots around here. If we’re lucky that one slab left that was in my Innersection could be working.

Taylor: I always feel, after a great day of big waves, that I have no interest in surfing small waves for at least three or four days, and if I do it kind of ruins the buzz. Are you the same way?

Albee: Yeah, I know right. I kind of almost enjoy it more though, because it’s so mellow. I don’t even think of it as surfing. It’s weird.

Taylor: You’re weird, but great job today.

Albee: Thanks

And the hype rolls on to California…

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  • doodakist

    Tell your friends to quit wearing FULLSUITS in HAWAII!!! Lamest thing EVER!

  • SuperFan

    Albee’s the man. My new favorite surfer.

  • alltruth

    You ride waves like that, wear whatever you want.

  • aaron

    … best interview ever!

  • bufu

    Dooda thanks for the donkey comment. Albee sic wave….keep charging.

  • JAMES ANTUNEZ

    ALBEE HOOKIPA GROM …..MEGA…AMAZING…and mahalo for the show, i am stoked to have internet in tahiti to watch you perform not only for me and the world ! BUT the ancient POLYNESIANS as well ….SURE! they are proud of you…HANA HOU MAN HANA HOU!!!!

  • Kuipo

    people wear full suits at jaws cause its super cold out there. the water temp is not freeizng but the wind chill is super bad. when ur paddling, ur not catching wave after wave like a normal surf session. u spend hours in the howling wind just to catch a few waves. with out a suit u get super cold making it harder to hold ur breath and preform. on another note, albees wave was amazing!!!!

  • wtf?!?!

    spring suit is probably more than enough

  • Jason Redman

    Let’s go surf baja with Taylor! He says the lineups are empty and we should all get down there. Las Rocas with your chick-epic! Rad Taylor. See ya in baja.
    JR