You Are Here: Shawn Briley

posted by / Blogs / June 14, 2011

Shawn Briley

Shawn Briley: still thick, still sick.

Shawn Briley

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Shawn Briley

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Shawn Briley

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Shawn Briley

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Shawn Briley

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Shawn Briley

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Shawn Briley

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Shawn Briley

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You Are Here, Nathan Myers

Shawn Briley is back. Again. Riding bombs. Blowing minds. I don’t know where he went or why or even care. Better not to ask. But I just saw him catch an amazing wave and I can’t get it out of my mind.

So I walked down the beach to ask about his comeback, but then he got sick and it definitely wasn’t the right time for an interview. Maybe he ate some bad Indo food. Maybe it was from a few long-absent and well-deserved comeback Bintangs. Maybe it was just leftover adrenaline from yesterday’s waves. If Briley was sick today…he was even sicker the day before.

Seems like Briley has made a career out of showing up out of nowhere and blowing people’s minds with the wave of the day. He’s a big guy. He’s had his share of ups and downs. And when you see him paddling for a bomb…you better believe it’s his wave. Second Reef Pipe. Left at Waimea. You probably didn’t want that one anyway.

So that’s what went down yesterday out at a well-known secret spot in Indonesia. Briley famously charged the super-shallow “Grower” section at this spot years ago (maybe he was even one of the first), but today was a different scene: a dozen A-list pros, and a baker’s dozen of B-list Brazilians were making the lineup quite a zoo. Low tide. Solid swell. Sun setting. Shawn picks one off up the top and ropes his way through three long barrels.

I shot these photos as he barreled past. You’ll probably see better in the days to come — video, too, I suspect; there was quite a media circus on the beach. As he rolled out of one barrel and into the next, Briley raised two fists above his head. Triumph. So stoked. Then the wave heaved over him again, down into The Grower section and Briley dropped his claim (but not his grin) and disappeared back into the tube…maybe for another decade or so.

Sickness. That’s what is was.

Interviews are stupid, anyway. Getting barreled ain’t. Nice one, Shawn. —Nathan Myers

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19 Responses to “You Are Here: Shawn Briley”

  1. Jeff says:

    F#@# YES!!!! BRILEY IS SUCH A LEGEND. THIS POST MADE MY MORNING…

  2. sevesofthesea says:

    sick!

  3. Darren says:

    Judging by that kinda-barrel claim, he would seem Mr.Briley spent his down time training to be Brazilian.

    And drinking lard.

  4. Black Dawg says:

    Nathan meyers is a clown and doesnt have enough creditability to do interviews on people like Briley !!

    Let briley do his thing and surfing magazine worry about hypsterads like dane and this short faze thats about to end

  5. oldmanandthesevs says:

    look how small he makes the wave look

  6. Kung Fu Panda says:

    Give me a break Nathan Myers. Pack up your stuff and go back to Cali, you Ex-pat twat.

  7. jay says:

    dane’s short faze about to end hahahaha Black Dawg is a kook.

  8. RogerThat says:

    Briley’s the man. Show’s up outta nowhere ever ten years to catch the wave of the day. Epic.

  9. Nick Carroll says:

    Shawn earns every barrel he gets, good on ya big bloke.

  10. Tino R says:

    Nathan, it’d still be worth interviewing Briley. He’s intelligent, thoughtful, articulate, someone who’s always evolving. He gives surfers a good name. We’ll always be proud of him.

  11. Black Dawg says:

    jay is a kook who sits at his desk and says people are kooks.

    meet you at the starbucks next to your office, you kook.

  12. stay puff riders says:

    what is his training routine?
    how can i get that big?

  13. Jeff says:

    TIno R says Briley “gives surfers a good name”. Guess he doesn’t know about the 2 decades Shawn spent doing blow off strippers on the South Shore. Where do you think he was hiding? Still rips though…

  14. Jay says:

    You talking shit about dane shows your inner kook. I don’t work in a office…shit I don’t work at all.

  15. enzo says:

    Briley-olluppo! Pack it!

  16. mic says:

    dear Jeff snorting coke off hookers on any shore isn’t a good thing?
    Dosn’t give surfers a good name please…..!!!!!!
    Surfers are Surfers most of us did or do that shit, unfortunatlly not all of us make it out alive or make it out to lead a decent life.
    Great to see Briley still alive and I hope he is well or at least in recovery..
    Family and Surfing great reasons to live..
    O ya and Deserts will be firing early next week I mean firing…

  17. Really????. says:

    Wave of day? In desert’s? There are plenty of waves like that every five minutes… His time is gone long ago, and, c’mon just a little cover up, but for a bunch of ball lickers, epic. LOL. Better try some diet for the winter at his home.

  18. Moleman says:

    What a bunch of Hodads, Briley could take 20 years off and still rip on all you kooks.

  19. bob says:

    he needs to eat healthier or it’s a short life

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