Surfing was meant to be peaceful.
And corn was meant to be healthy. With time, things tend to evolve and morph into something drastically different from their original purpose. Corn has been genetically tampered, high-fructose syruped, modified, starched and finally labeled as a carcinogen. (Plump kernels, though.) And surfing has become a battle.
Earlier this week, a video surfaced of a grown man tackling another grown man off his surfboard. Last week, a video surfaced of a grown man in a wetsuit punching another grown man in a wetsuit. Next week, a video might surface of a grown man hog-tying another grown man with a 6-foot comp leash and forcing him to watch clips of Garret McNamara surfing Lowers. Unusual? Cruel? Check and check.
But not here. Not today. Today, we see Kaulana Apo and Benji Brand in the Mentawais. They are not attacking each other. They’re simply splitting a wave. And what a miracle, or a meaning.