Dane Zaun. Photo: Ricky Lesser

Red eyes aren’t always a bad thing.

And no, that’s not a reference to California’s newfound marijuana legalization. Rather, it’s a hint at how much sun, salt and surf we’ve seen over the past two days. Bright blue skies, palm fronds whipping towards the sea, nary a cloud in sight – this was the vision for every Californian on Wednesday and Thursday. And the ocean? What of our big, blue Pacific cauldron? Oh, she was majestic. A long-period WNW swell met the unfaltering offshores with equal force, leading to a battle of epic proportions. Every approaching wave furiously fought by the Santa Anas.

To be quite honest, swells and atmospheric conditions of this quality do not synchronize very often. What we experienced this November was something special, something that will be remembered for five, ten years – or until it happens again. We live for swells like these. Oftentimes we travel the world in pursuit of them. But when they happen on our doorstep, when they turn our local mushburger into a matrix of crystalline cocoons, they’re that much sweeter.

Now to sit back, relax, and soothe these red eyes with this batch of memories from the past 48 hours.

Photo: Jimmicane
Parker Coffin. Photo: Seth de Roulet
Tyler Fox. Photo: Audrey Lambidakis
Photo: Hammonds
Photo: Jimmicane
Kevin Schultz. Photo: Tanner Carney
Maverick's. Photo: Teddy Miller
Photo: Jimmicane
Dane Reynolds. Photo: William Sharp
Photo: Audrey Lambidakis
Kevin Schultz. Photo: Checkwood
Photo: Seth de Roulet
Photo: Ridge BenBen
Conner Coffin. Photo: Seth de Roulet
Photo: Jimmicane


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