August Issue 2009 Surfing Magazine

posted by / Magazine / June 23, 2009


FOREWORD

“When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro.” —Hunter S. Thompson

Now before we get too involved here, I will tell you I’m racing the sun inan effort to have a shred before dark. It’s been a busy day…week…month hereat SURFING and I need to get in the water. I’m sure you understand.

During the past 30 days we’ve managed to appoint a new editor (that’sme, Travis Ferr…we’ve met before, just not on this page), get 12 stitchesto the head, rekindle our love for summer, discover two new waves, watch ourcorporate owner file chapter 11, and have our final, karaoke-filled farewellto our (literally) fearless leader of the past eight years, Evan Slater. Andwhile this won’t exactly go down as the sentimental decade — it seems we’veall traded in tears for emoticons — I do want to thank Evan for everythinghe taught me and the rest of the crew here at the magazine. His love forsurfing has been spilling out across lineups all over the world for a longtime and we’re honored to take the reins from him and continue thetradition.

And what an interesting time it is to be taking over at a surfmagazine.

I believe it was Dr. Hunter S. Thompson who said, “When the going getsweird, the weird turn pro.” And to say that these are weird times would be ahuge understatement. We’ve been taking this recessionary set on the head forfar too long now. Between the dire economy, mass layoffs, bankruptcies,swine flu epidemics and Dane Reynolds’ inability to win a World Tour heat inmore than three months, you wouldn’t be too hard-pressed to find peopleconvinced we’re moments away from the apocalypse. A lot of them seem readyto flip around to go sit on the sand until this closeout set passes.

Not us though. We’re still scratching out the back because we want to bethe first ones on the next set.

We thrive on enthusiasm. In fact, we’re so psyched for the future thatwhen we weren’t singing “Don’t Stop Believing” to Evan on his final day, wewere busy discovering two new waves, one you’ll see this month starting onpage 104. It’s the Caribbean’s ode to Kirra and it spent three days pumpingout cerulean cylinders just for Ben Bourgeois and Jesse Hines. The other,which you’ll meet next month thanks to 12-year-old wave hunter Stephen Pageand his winning Google Earth entry, is a warm-blooded, Spanish-speakingJ-Bay somewhere south of San Diego. (Check page 160 for a sneak peek).

All in all, it’s been a fast-paced month here and we wouldn’t have itany other way, because — to only slightly adjust Dr. Gonzo’s famous words —“When the going gets weird, the weird go surf.”

And that’s exactly what I’m going to do right now. —Travis Ferré

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