December Issue 2011 Surfing Magazine

posted by / Magazine / October 18, 2011

December Issue 2011 Surfing Magazine

WE MANAGED TO SLIP
AWAY TO THE FAR EAST
WHILE NO ONE WAS LOOKING.
AND WELL, WE KINDA SCORED.

December Issue 2011 Surfing MagazineHow interesting has surfing been lately? Between the lunacy that went down at Teahupo’o, a million-dollar prize purse in New York, someone beating The Slater, another round of ever-entertaining Bobby Martinez/ASP antics, hurricanes, typhoons, psycho tow-ins, new airs, that thing Kelly pulled in Long Beach — hell, even the US Open of Surfing in Huntington was pretty sick — it’s just been excitement on the high seas this month. And hot damn, have those seas been high, too! There was some point this month when every ocean had a storm that was producing epic waves somewhere, and while most eyes were on Tahiti, or the East Coast of the US, we managed to slip away to the Far East while no one was looking. And well, we kinda scored too.

The trip was a last-minute circus-turned-typhoon-chase with Dane Reynolds, Kolohe Andino, Yadin Nicol and Conner Coffin. A trip that reminded me that it is still possible — in this often packaged and branded professional surfin’ world — to hit the road with some people you call friends and surf and run around a new country and enjoy everything from the local convenience store to new waves without any negativity. We all agreed never to return without each other because it would never be as much fun. But during a trip to Indo a week after our trip, Dane saw some more swell headed for Japan and, having fewer obligations than normal at the moment, decided to try again, this time meeting up with Yadin, John John Florence and Dillon Perillo.

And boy, are we glad they went back.

“The best Japan in 40 years” was what they found. A perfect storm of swell, conditions and sand gave the boys four days of the funnest surf ever, in a land that’s so much more than just another surf destination. And while Dane and Yadin had to leave a day before the biggest waves thanks to injuries (Yadin’s broken ankle and Dane’s bruised ribs), they nonetheless managed to put on quite a show for the Japanese surfing community. And Dane found a new favorite surfer after watching John John for a few days. In an email following the trip he told me, “John John is for sure my favorite surfer. He’s so f–king sick. You have to send me a shot of those waves they got, I’m tripping out!”

Despite Dane and Yadin’s disappointment at missing the best day on trip No. 2, what took place over those few weeks in Japan did more than perfect barrels ever could: it revived a surfing culture that was shell-shocked by the tragedy of March’s major earthquake. Shuji Kasuya, our host in Japan, said earnestly, “This is so good for the kids and the next generation of Japanese surfers, to see these guys come surf their waves in a time like this.” And we couldn’t be happier to visit them, either. I want to personally thank the Japanese surfers we met along the way for all their hospitality and knowledge. Both trips, regardless of waves, were ones for the record books, as well as the memory bank. —Travis Ferré

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19 Responses to “December Issue 2011 Surfing Magazine”

  1. WOW says:

    Holy SHIT! HOW FU$KING GOOD DID YOU JAPAN!

  2. michael says:

    YeeAAHHH travis!! thrilling clip

  3. Darrel says:

    Wow, never seen an editor so much include himself. Why not just give yourself the cover?

  4. Mik says:

    Sick. Japan is so freaking unique. You can feel the pure vibe, and it’s a golden. So is Travis’s surfing, among that heavily talented crew. What’s wrong with a surf editor surfing rad and showing? Nada. Way it should be. Way it IS. More — prease!!!

  5. dgb says:

    Yep, nothing like a trip to Japan to help a country already in denial about its future think everything is OK – on going radiation contamination problem with hot spots all over north japan, contaminated food and water that the government wants everyone to think is OK by raising at the allowed radiation level limits. Drink any water while you were there guys? Water is a good example: US EPA standard for Iodine-131 is 0.111, Germany 0.5, Belarus (You know that little rocking surf town near Chenobyl) is 10 while Japan is now 300. Eat any sushi? J-government still hasn’t released any data for how much radiation was leaked into the ocean. Green Peace ask to be allowed to take samples and were warned away. Eat any steak guys? I’m guessing Shuji forgot to mention that the contaminated beef the went into the school lunch system also went out to all the major supermarket chains as well. The predictions go like this: 100 000 new cancers will be diagnosed within the first 10 years, another 200 000 within 15 years. There’s something for the memory bank!

  6. Haha says:

    Haha,

    Sounds like dgb is trying to keep a lockdown on Japan. Nice odds on cancer due radiation. You can run odds on anything you do everyday including driving on roadways etc.. you get the idea. Japan is great. so different from the west and not all scummy like s.e. asia! Been there are few times, go and support the economy, surf fun waves, enjoy the girls,,, but wait!.. we are counting odds so make sure to wear your protection! Japan rules, if I were to go back I would worry more about the cost of everyday travel there, then radiation!!!

  7. yoshi JAPAN says:

    どうも美味しい所だけ喰って帰った感がある。
    出来れば波乗りやバカ騒ぎだけじゃなく
    商売がらみでもいいから
    東北のポイントの現状も見ていって欲しかった。
    (時間がないとは言わせない、ツアーだってリタイヤ気味じゃないか)
    去年の今頃ならこんな事、腹の中に収めて
    我慢してたんだろうけど大地震、原発からの放射線汚染で
    今、かつてない事になっているのを
    誰よりもわかっている日本人の
    糟谷さんが連れてきてこの内容はいかがなものか?!
    今、日本がどんな状態か分かっていて来るんだろうから
    その事に対して何か行動があってもいいのでは?

    酒匂は私のホームポイントでもなんでもない
    しかし、この状況で外人がバカ騒ぎしている写真なんか
    見たくもないし未だにサーフィンだって
    ままならない東北を初め被災したサーファーが
    見たら、この記事は一体どう思うだろうか?

    この記事に関して日本国を愛する
    日本人のサーファーの意見を是非聞かせてほしい。

  8. dgb says:

    Yep, radiation, the big joke haha. US government doesn’t think so: The products from the Fukushima, Ibaraki, Tochigi and Gunma prefectures in Japan are affected by the Import Alert issued yesterday by the Food and Drug Administration – Bloomberg. Here’s something that will tickle your funny-bone while your waiting for the next generation of Japanese surfers to arrive.

    http://topdocumentaryfilms.com/chernobyl-heart/

  9. jealous kook dgb says:

    We ate their steak and drank their water. We’re fine.

  10. M21L says:

    Wow, they scored really epic conditions. I would really like to go sometime, & I decided to write because our Pastor is there for a month, in about 3 regions of Japan, restoring the people & churches of Japan, especially the youth, the next generation. Don’t get me wrong, he is not on a mission’s trip, but on an Apostolic sending for what really matters most, everyone’s right standing before God, & hearing & obeying Christ. Before you possibly “react” to this email remember this: great waves are great waves, but a quality life inside & out, is a quality life inside & out!

  11. Gary Burkhalter says:

    It was great to see Dane, Dillon, John John and Yadin as well as Mr. Neville who rips as well at my local spot here in Japan. They made quite an impression and got much respect from the locals who don’t have much of an opportunity to communicate with foreigners except me. Now, they are much more interested in surfing harder and learning English. The boys were so cool and are welcome back anytime. Surfing with those guys for three days was totally unexpected, insane and memorable. It was also nice to talk with native English speakers as well. Cheers guys and heal up soon Yadin. Still here, regardless of the conditions. Oh and BTW, all governments lie! It’s the nature of the beast!

  12. dgb says:

    Some more reasons to stick your heads in the sand and pretend like it will all be the same again. Now remember what happens when a little contaminated fish gets eaten by a bigger fish while your reading the the below.

    The destroyed Fukushima nuclear plant in Japan was responsible for the biggest discharge of radioactive material into the ocean in history, a study from a French nuclear safety institute said.
    The radioactive cesium that flowed into the sea from the Fukushima Dai-Ichi nuclear plant was 20 times the amount estimated by its owner, Tokyo Electric Power Co., according to the study by the Institute for Radiological Protection and Nuclear Safety, which is funded by the French government.
    It’s the second report released in a week calling into question estimates from Japan’s government and the operator of the plant that was damaged in the March earthquake and tsunami. The Fukushima station may have emitted more than double the company’s estimate of atmospheric release at the height of the worst civil atomic crisis since Chernobyl in 1986, according to a study in the Atmospheric Chemistry and Physics journal.

    Anyone for some fresh sushi?

  13. Jon J M. says:

    I went to Japan in the summer of 84 and you got 245 yen to the dollar.Not too bad had a rad fun time and slept with a couple of sexy Japanese girls.Went back in winter of 86-87.The yen was strong and the dollar wasn’t.You got like 110 yen to the dollar which sucked.I had a cough and cold for 2 weeks,but I still managed to have a good time and bed a couple fine Japanese ladies.First time I climbed Mt.Fuji and rode a motorcycle through the streets of Yokohama and Tokyo.Second time hooked up with this rich chick with a sports car and we went out every day and night.Its a very clean place but now it costs 2 much and I would avoid the food,water,and radiation until further notice.Rather check out Hong Kong or Europe or Hawaii.Kawabunga!!

  14. Jon J M. says:

    My comments,where they go bro?

  15. Jason Miller says:

    Jon,

    Sorry. We’ve been receiving a lot of spam and yours got mixed up with the rest. Thanks for sharing your story from Japan.

  16. dgb says:

    The government on Tuesday ordered a ban on the shipment of rice harvested in two more districts in Fukushima Prefecture after tests detected dangerously high levels of radioactive cesium. (Japan Times) Another bowl of rice, anyone?

    A high level of radioactive cesium was detected in the soil today at Kashiwa City (the city had an estimated population of 404,820 and a population density of 3520 persons per km²), Chiba prefecture, near Tokyo, according to Japan’s Ministry of Environment. The high concentration was detected in a vacant lot. According to the city government, up to 450,000 becquerels of radioactive cesium was detected.

    Lots of expected vacancies at the following Universities

    Chiba University, Kashiwa Campus
    University of Tokyo, Kashiwa Campus
    Reitaku University
    Nishōgakusha University
    Nihonbashi Gakkan University

  17. dgb says:

    The operator of Japan’s Fukushima nuclear plant says at least 45 tonnes of highly radioactive water has leaked from the facility, possibly into the Pacific Ocean.

    A statement by the operator TEPCO said workers noticed a leak in a purification device, with radioactive water escaping through a crack in a catchment wall.

    The leaking water contained about 1 million times as much strontium as the maximum safe level.

    Strontium is easily absorbed by living tissue and can cause cancer.

    TEPCO says some of the 45 tonnes or more of contaminated water may have reached the Pacific Ocean. ABC News

    What wettie should I wear for these conditions?

  18. dgb says:

    Radioactive cesium was found in milk powder made by a Meiji Holdings Co. unit, causing the shares to fall the most in eight months and raising concern that nuclear radiation is contaminating baby food.
    Meiji found traces of cesium-137 and cesium-134 this week in batches of “Meiji Step” made in March, the Tokyo-based company said in a statement today. (Bloomberg)

    Bring your kids!

  19. dgb says:

    Radioactivity in Japanese waters thousands of times higher than normal With recent reports that there have been further radioactive leaks from the Fukushima nuclear power plants, a new study has assessed the level of radioactivity in the ocean in the first months after the disaster. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution chemist Ken Buesseler and two Japanese colleagues report that discharges from the power plants peaked a month after the March 11 earthquake and tsunami, and continued through at least July. The disaster was the largest accidental release of radiation to the ocean in history. Concentrations of cesium-137 at the plants’ discharge points to the ocean peaked at more than 50 million times normal levels. And at the plants’ discharge points to the ocean peaked at more than 50 million times normal levels.

    Cesium-137 with a shelf life of 30 years, we can expect our sushi to be hot, hot, hot for a long time to come.

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