January Issue 2012 Surfing Magazine

posted by / Magazine / November 21, 2011

I adopted a life chasing chaos.

January Issue 2012 Surfing Magazine I need to take a second to lay some blame. I hardly recognize who I am anymore and I think I know the culprit: it’s this damn surfing’s fault. Over the past 15 years it’s put me through a complete metamorphosis. You can ask my mom; she watched it all go down.

Growing up I was extremely calculated, organized, and borderline obsessive-compulsive. A real future-insurance-agent type. Looking back now, it’d be easier to just say I was a big pussy. Risks weren’t something I took. I was shy, reserved and terrified to travel. I skipped fifth grade camp to stick around and run the playground alone. I would incessantly fix my little brother’s hair and apologize to strangers for his lack of manners and hygiene. I held onto my youth; I cherished routine. I’m pretty sure my parents thought I’d never move out of their house, just age quietly in my childhood bedroom. I’d just inhabit the safe side for eternity.

But then, sometime around sixth grade, I started surfing and quit the baseball team. I tanned out and my hair turned blonde. I began getting dropped off at the beach after school and adopted a life chasing chaos. Up to that point, I’d surfed with my dad sometimes on weekends and thought it was pretty cool — but I didn’t really like the sand (neat freak) and was kinda annoyed that I didn’t have a board with a pointed nose. I’d instead resort to the boogie board because it was soft and never dinged up your shins. Much safer. But that sixth grade year I made friends with a few guys who surfed, and going to the beach with my dad became the only thing we lived for.

That’s when the metamorphosis began to show. I stopped caring about things I used to think were very important; my hair was no longer combed up just right, and I paid more attention to surf videos than to girls. I knew the importance of every surfer from Justin Matteson and Benji Weatherley to Tom Curren and Kelly, and knew all the songs in each of their videos. I became obsessed with the lifestyle and wanted to travel to France and Indonesia and Costa Rica and wherever else waves broke.

But it was the dramatic shift in my demeanor that was most startling. I took more risks. I got tougher, more confident. I wanted to see things. I don’t think any of this would have happened had I continued with normal sports and school and whatever it is people do while we go surfing and waste our days being happy in the ocean.

So I blame surfing for making me who I am today: a bit of a flight risk and at times unpredictable. For initiating my curiosity about life. For giving me all my best friends and allowing me to see more places and things before 30 than many will ever see; for making me aware of my surroundings and really good at observing weather conditions; for getting me noticed by girls; for installing a bit of “f–k it” in my system; for turning me on to music and filmmaking and writing and reading and making me a better, more well-rounded person overall. For giving me everything I have.

But most of all, I want to blame surfing for forcing me to quit being a pussy and go check some shit out in life — because really, that’s all there is to this world: the people you enjoy, nature, and something good to eat and drink along the way. So surfing, just know you’re at fault for this dramatic shift, and that I’m glad I could get it off my chest. No love lost. —Travis Ferré

Tags: , ,

Related Posts:

  • pol pot

    what was that?? a fucking 300 word autobiography on Travis ?? shit man what the fuck is this, this sounds like some bullshit you write to your best friend in the back of their senior yearbook. Thought the motherfucker quit? tohellwithitall

  • Olaf

    Wow, thanks for the insight into this issue (insert shot of teenage masturbation).

    Ho, how’s Kelly claiming that air as he rolls outta the foamball landing. Mental. There’s a dude who just won’t quit.

  • Kaipo Gomes

    Travis, what happened to the Kai monthly magazine gig? After committing not once but twice, one of the deadly sins in the surf world, EXPOSING A SECRET SPOT, are you back at ING to cop your beating? You FUCK!!! The buck stops with you on Salina Cruz and I would love to hear your side of the story. Your “exit” looked to be well timed as the door hit you in the ass after the Salina Cruz issue. Rip Curl would not be welcomed with open arms at Barra for not living up to their agreement and skipping town without paying what they agreed to. Do you think you would be welcomed at Salina Cruz?

  • mo

    travis, ignore the haters – i liked the introduction, every understands the risk-something-win-something-mentality…

    keep it up!
    ps: great video edit!

  • Luciano

    wow, this comment from pol pot is for real? Don’t you have to be over 13 years old to post comments on this website? I hope you guys at Surfing will let his parents know about his bad behaviour! hahahahahahahahahahahaha

  • Shany

    Good short read. I enjoyed it, surfing does indeed can change one’s view on the world and change him into a different person.

  • Surf Camp Costa Rica

    Great video :-)

  • badsheepdog

    “I began getting dropped off at the beach after school and adopted a life chasing chaos.”

  • joshua hill

    i can not see the video it sead it is block!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!