“Just paddling out into big surf is total commitment. You can’t just call time-out and stroll on into the beach if you don’t like the way things are going.”
Of all the surf wisdom to be gained from watching Point Break’s bonfire scene, this quote is up there with the best of ‘em. As surfers, we hand ourselves over to the ocean every time we get in the water. Here I am, sea. Do with me what you will. We surf and we enjoy ourselves, content with being out of the driver’s seat. We deal with whatever is thrown our way. Big waves. Sharks. A rip current that escorts us a half-mile out to sea. We’ve learned not to panic because there is not a single benefit to panicking. Instead, we hold our breath. Paddle parallel to shore. Punch the shark in the nose. In short, we figure it out. Surfers have been keeping calm and carrying on long before that silly phrase came back in vogue. And it is this cool, this adaptability, that made this month’s Iceland trip such a success [see “Every Here Has a There,” pg.72]. Beginning production on Joe G’s newest film, the Globe crew went to the Nordic isle with nothing more than warm wetsuits, inspiration and open minds. Reservations and forecasts be damned; they’d figure it out. And it was flexibility and confidence that would lead them to beautiful women, punchy beachbreaks and the perfect cut of reindeer meat. The ocean and the road teach us to be easy going. In this area, few surfers need to improve. But it’s the new year. We have a blank slate — a chance to call time-out and find ways to strengthen the rest of our lives so we’re not simply easy going. We can be better. Not in the “lose five pounds” or “quit biting my nails” sense. But in the bigger, root changes that will last past Valentine’s Day. We can say something and stand by it, as explained in “Resolver” on pg. 94. Because being bold and compelled is also something surfers can be, and for the most part, commonly are. —Taylor Paul
Inside this Issue
072 CHAPTER THREE: EVERY HERE HAS A THERE OR, THE GREAT ICELANDIC ADVENTURE
Joe G and the Globe team know two irrefutable facts: Surfing is the highest form of art and also the highest form of adventure. Thus they begin filming for their newest motion picture in Iceland, where art and adventure intersect. Fueled by reindeer and Viking love, Dion Agius, Nate Tyler and Brendon Gibbens cross through ice lakes and into the sea to find some chilly wedges. Photos by DJ Struntz and Grady Archbold. Saga by Chas Smith.
084 THE HOUSE THAT JACK BUILT
The two-time Junior World Champion, Kai movie starring, billboard-gracing, overall amazing Aussie Jack Freestone is at the top of his game. He’s also just 20 years old. Australia’s Surfing Life editor Chris Binns hangs with Jack and his mum in Australia, and brings us a story about a kid who’s made it big and is feeling right at home.
Many people wait until they lose their jobs or have a cancer scare before they find motivation to improve their lives. Not you, though. All it takes for you is striking surf imagery and some thoughtful words. Prepare to go from good to great.
Looking for a digital copy of our March 2013 issue? Find it here.