September Issue 2009 Surfing Magazine

posted by / Magazine / July 21, 2009


FOREWORD
Borderline Irresponsible

Mexico doesn’t take reservations. I learned this two days after receiving news that I’d be moving up the masthead here at the magazine. I got an e-mail from Greg Long that I knew would be coming, but wasn’t ready to hear.“Google Earth trip is on. Let’s go. Get the kid and the crew ready —this is our swell.”

So instead of spending the first week at my dream job getting organized,stuffing my calendar and getting acquainted with my desk’s caress —I went to Mexico. Just dropped it all, left the laptop and Black Berry at home and fled south with the winners of this year’s Google Earth Challenge,12-year-old Stephen Page and his dad, Doug. Armed with very little information and a loose plan to hook up with local (and cover boy) Diego Cadena, we set off for an ultra-remote and more than likely dangerous region of Mexico to uncover a new wave that, until now, has only been scoured from space (see “Lost and Found,” pg. {{{100}}}). On paper, this was borderline irresponsible.

But if you’re like most of us who’ve put a surfboard beneath our feet,the allure of Mexico is often too much to deny. Its promises of mysterious points, raw landscape and eternally sketchy situations offer up the perfect escape from the banal Twit-filled lives we live here on Planet Stars and Stripes. So after taking into consideration all the risks that come with unexplored Mexico —Swine Flu, decapitation by drug cartel bandidos, and the skunk factor —and the possible repercussions at work, I said screw it,rolled the dice and trekked into an untouched and prehistoric place where a world-class wave has been reeling off for decades in desolate solitude. And we completely scored.

Now, if that’s not enough to make a trip to Mexico worth the unforeseen obstacles, then by all means, answer your BlackBerry —it’s corporate calling. But for those of us who are drawn to the south by romantic visions of dirt roads and lonely points, then we give you this magazine as an ode to a country that has long captivated our wanderlust as surfers unlike any other place in the world. A place that continues to be labeled as “unsafe”by mainstream media. A place that your mom, wife or girlfriend would rathery ou skip. A place that asks you to plan nothing and expect everything. A place where as long as we can fishtail across pot-hole laden back roads with Van Halen’s “Panama” blaring from the speakers while a few cans of Tecate bang around the bed of our truck en route to the coast, we’ll be heading back at a moment’s notice until the end of time. —Travis Ferré

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