Tape It To The Dashboard
Driving on a paved road to a spot that’s becoming less and less secret, a professional surfer said to a SURFING writer, “If you’re going to write about this, make it sound like it’s harder than it is to get here.”
Surf magazines have been selling the dream of perfect waves in exotic locales since their inception. Green water? Check. Barrels? Check. Palm trees, sunshine and offshore winds? Check, check, check — mock it up for Pg. 1, please. And that’s a good thing. Seeing photos of ruler-edge lines rolling through a sand point gives you something to dream about during school, or an image to tape to your dash to motivate you on your way to the job site. It’s the same way girls use Ryan Gosling when they work out.
But does there come a time when the perfection portrayed in these pages goes from inspirational to unattainable, something the pros can have but you cannot? When do you, the reader, say, “I can never go there because it’s too far, too expensive or too hidden”?
Hopefully, never. Because it’s just not true. Too far? You can get almost anywhere in the world in 72 hours. Too expensive? Forgo your daily latte and set a fare alert on Kayak. Too hidden? Try Google. The world has shrunken to the size of a basketball and if you’re not playing the game, that’s on you. Because for every perfect wave a professional surfer rides, there’s a no-namer getting barreled on the one behind it. The no-namer is the one that goes the hard way, the one that rides a twice-broken board and refuses to accept that the Indies IV is the only way to reach Lance’s Right. In honor of these everyday adventurers, we’ve started an online column called “Outliers,” which highlights the people who’ve manifested a reality that looks a lot like a dream. They are not pro surfers. They are not rich. They are no smarter or braver than you and me. But they have decided that getting really, really barreled is important to them and have created an existence that takes place largely behind the foamball.
This magazine is still very much fantasy. It is far-reaching perfection in vintage form. The Strange Rumblings crew scored once again in Indonesia [Pg. 74] and Jimmicane went to South America and returned with wide eyes and lineup images like the one you’ll see on Pg. 64. These features are not meant to establish any sort of exclusivity, but rather pour gas on your travel fire and inspire spontaneity and adventure. Think about it, …make it sound harder than it is to get here. He wouldn’t have said that unless he was worried about you showing up. —Taylor Paul
Inside this Issue
Pg. 64 Highs and Goodbyes:
Chippa Wilson, Balaram Stack and Cristobal De Col pump and punt till their legs go numb in a hidden corner of South America. Taken in and shown the ropes by Cristobal’s gracious and amazing father Titi, we remember the brightest highlight of their trip. Photos and words by Jimmicane.
Pg. 76 Chapter Eight: Into the Jungle Or When the Going Gets Weird, the Weird Go to Indonesia:
On the third escapade of Joe G’s Strange Rumblings in Shangri-La, Damien Hobgood, Dion Agius, Creed McTaggart and Nate Tyler find their sweetest treasure yet — in Indo, of course. Chas Smith pens the Globe crew’s equatorial jaunt through distant islands, by way of ferry, into gaping, emerald shacks. Photos by DJ Struntz.
Pg. 88 Kill Two Birds (and Injure a Third):
Guided by the Great Spirit, Wakan Tanka (with a little help from photographer Dave Nelson), Nathan Fletcher and Noah Wegrich journey to the Pacific Northwest for some spirit-wedges and skateparks. Through daily dispatches we learn of a quest filled with drum circles, werewolves, orcas and A-frames.
Pg. 96 As The Crow Flies
Four gorgeous photos that’ll have you searching for the shortest route between home and your next surf trip.