SUMMER DREAMING ON THE EAST COAST

posted by / News / March 18, 2005

**EDITORS NOTE** Aaron Lyon, the author of this piece, is a 16 year old student at North High in Newton, MA. This is his first submission to SURFINGthemag.com.

The kitchen door shut as I jumped down the stairs and sprinted the thirty feet to the garage. The fiveseconds it took felt like an hour. Time was going soslowly. I fidgeted to get my bike unlocked as myhands trembled. My mind was already where I washeading, but my body lagged behind. Quickly I jumpedonto the bicycle seat, and scrambled down the street. The offshore breeze caressed my face as the tiresfrantically spun. The destination was close, butmy senses couldn’t wait. It was a feeling I had neverfelt before, a feeling that my body would jump out ofmy skin.

The pavement turned into a racetrack as thetraffic noise of cars whirred by me. My ears heardwhat I wanted them to. My mouth tried to express myfeelings but my voice just came out as pure energy. As the sidewalk soon became a wooden incline, I feltlike a child running up the ramp to the baseball parkfor the first time. My eyes must have glowed like thesun. My lips parted into a smile. It felt like everysmile before this one had been fake. My face beamed,glowing in disbelief. What I saw before me was a giftfrom God, something given to a select few, to the oneswho really appreciate it.

Glistening in the morning sun, the pipes of oceanwater barreled down the line in elegant form. Themost magnificent waves in the world, full of power aswell as grace. {{{Eight}}} foot walls of saltwater hit theskin-colored sand to present a magical paintingagainst the backdrop, royal blue sky. It all blendedtogether. My eyes couldn’t stop staring atthis beautiful sight. The waves just kept coming,like autumn leaves falling from a tree. The slightbreeze lifted the spray off the back of the waves thatmelted into the pure ocean air. The boardwalk turnedinto bleachers as excited surfers stood watching inawe of this historic day.

As I stared at the sea, I saw the red rashguard of my little brother emerge from the packedlineup of surfers in the water. He gracefully rose tohis feet. It was like watching a baby stand for thefirst time. I was astonished. I watched in awe asthe wave began to crest over my brother’s head, thelip of white water protecting him from the sun as hepulled into the barrel. He was gone, lost in themidst of surf nirvana, soon to be spit out by thebeastly wave. Seeing him ride the wave onto shoresent a chain reaction on the beach as fellow surfershollered and cheered. I couldn’t have been moreproud.

My summer dream of big surf had just become areality. I had spent countless days biking to theboardwalk to watch the waves roll in, wondering what amorning like this one would feel like. Now I just hadto get my board.

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