Because it’s not all on the webcast, Surfline and Dane’s Blog.
By Travis Ferré
By now we all know BLOG stands for “shitty journalism and bad photos I took from Google” (Some people still claim it stands for “Weblog,” but those people are old). But for some reason, it seems like that’s exactly what we’re after online, right? We don’t want carefully constructed, articulate pieces of prose packed with clean fonts and headers. We want Dane’s Bukowski tear-outs. A funny video. Bad punctuation. Some insider trading on the world’s best surfers and their in and out of the water antics from a place that has still yet to be presented on the surreal level that it actually is. And we want it Sherm-style. So, we’ll give it a go. Here, and on our Twitter (www.twitter.com/surfingmagazine (of course) we’ll try to give you an idea of how much action gets stuff into this drag strip length miracle of shoreline. How grandiose. How absolutely mind bottling (or is it boggling?) it all is. And what better time to start. There are three bombing swells stacked up aimed for the North Shore. The Eddie may run Monday. The O’Neill World Cup of Surfing at Sunset will conclude over the next few days in massive walls of what the rambunctious Aussie Ian Cairns says, “Will take someone big and cocky to win because Sunset is that gnarly.” And well, there’s that whole Billabong Pipeline Masters and ASP World Title Race thing going on between Mick Fanning (who I saw buying bananas at Foodland today), and Joel Parkinson (who was jogging with Andy Irons this morning) still to come.
But by all means, go to a nicer website. One with colors and flash players. A real Blog attached to their site. Maybe some videos. Or keep it here and we’ll show what’s really going on.
Evan Geiselman received word this morning that we were looking for a cover and a few spreads for the issue on deadline. Just so happens he has an east coast connection with our staff photographer DJ Struntz, who is staying at Log Cabins too. So with waves rather small, the two posted up over the daunting pinnacles at Log Cabins to punt one for the camera. The sun was out. The water warm, of course. His trunks…all wrong. “Brandon [Hurley Team Manager] made me change them once he saw DJ shooting,” Evan said while changing trunks mid-session.
After three successful hook ups, Evan then raced down the line towards “Scuba Steve” and launched straight into his housing. Evan’s back fins stabbed straight into DJ’s housing. The crack could be heard from our porch. Evan came in. Busted fin. DJ busted housing. But guess what? He got the shot. Check an upcoming issue of surfing for the proof.
Dillon Perillo had a rough go as well. After surfing for three hours he came in looking for ice. “My ankle just will not stop hurting,” he kept mumbling. Ankles are the Achilles heel for a surfer. More debilitating than almost any other injury. Just ask Dane Reynolds who spent almost an entire year nursing his sore ankle. Dillon now seems to be dealing with the same problem. Although from what I saw of him surfing today he didn’t seem too inhibited at all.
Dion Agius flew in today as well, hot off his performance in the greatest surf celluloid to drop in ages: Modern Collective. I’ll assume you’ve heard of, seen and memorized his sections by now. Dion is here to focus on a new film and ad project for Globe. He chomped on my chewy chocolate chip cookies and watched the new swell move in from our deck at the SURFING Magazine house. He then proceeded to get ultra modern at Rocky Point.
International male model and HB shredder Brad Ettinger and his lovely wife Danielle stopped by our house to do an interview for her upcoming Whipped page. We looked at photos. And found out what a smooth operator Brad was to land such a stunning wifey. Here they show you the front door to our place. Yes, the front door to our house goes into the shower. It is literally in the shower. That’s a shower curtain and they are leaving our house. It’s wild. I love it. I’m going to turn it into a portrait studio for all our guests.
This evening a few brave souls in need of some adrenaline paddled out at Rockpile as the new swell began showing itself. It all started smiley. Almost playful, but by dark it was on. Alex Gray, Wade Goodall, Mick Fanning, Nathan Hedlge, Dane Ward and Laurie Towner all paddled out for some deep-water sleigh rides at the deep water wave. It was all fun until at about dusk a massive set closed out the whole spot and mowed every one over. Dane Ward was lucky enough to catch the first wave of the set and get in. “That was lucky,” he said, laughing and dragging Tanner Rozunko’s board up. “I just talked Tanner into paddling out and now he lost his board and leash and took that whole set on the head. He’s gonna be bummed.” We then watched as Tanner and Nathan Hedge took 8-foot detonations on the head, a mere 20-feet away, holding his board.
And that’s only day one. You can only imagine what we’re in store for today as a massive 20-30 foot swell slams the coast and the O’Neill World Cup of Surfing fires back up. Check back tomorrow for more from the North Shore.