SURFING’s photo team is ichiban number one on planet earth, but thousands of their images go unseen. This travesty shall not stand. We give you SURFING’s Five Photos series.
Camping with your buddies on the beach is something every surfer — no wait, every human — should do in their life. We had gone to a State campsite earlier in the day looking to set up camp, but the Governator had shut down quite a few campsites for the winter to save money. Arnold don’t surf…or camp.
Bud Freitas // Santa Cruz
Big bad Bud Freitas, laying it down during the best Santa Cruz winter this century.
Ocean Beach, San Francisco
The San Francisco Zoo sits just across the street from Ocean Beach. On this frigid January day a juvenile gorilla escaped from his pen, stole some surfer’s 7’6″ and paddled into some bombs.
Nat Young // Steamer Lane
The Westside of Santa Cruz is notorious for sticking surfers with unwanted nicknames. When he was a grom, Nat was so small everyone used to spell his name like “Gnat.” After he won the Coldwater Classic in 2008, Nat officially dropped the “G.” Here, Nat races to claim his spot in the Steamer Lane lineup.
For me, there’s not many things better than cold, offshore, winter days in Santa Cruz.
—Words and photos by Nate Lawrence