Greg Long Speaks on Cortes Bank Wipeout Part 2

posted by / News / December 29, 2012

Greg Long. Photo: @tsherms

Greg Long:

I hope everybody is doing great. This message is to be shared with the entire surfing community. It is time to move on and focus our energies in a positive direction.

I have no hard feelings towards Garrett nor do I blame him for what happened to me that day at Cortes. I have seen the video of our wave, and acknowledge that neither or us were going to successfully make it. I can easily think of a hundred things that people did that day, including myself, that would have potentially put me in a different place and time on that particular wave. But thinking about such things is a waste of precious time, energy, and life. I choose to live my life in the present moment. Not in the past and down a rabbit hole of “what ifs” “could haves” or “should haves”. It was my choice to be out there that day, and in doing so, I assumed full responsibility for anything that could have happened. There are countless lessons to be learned from that experience for myself, Garrett, and the entire surfing community. I am confident these lessons will be taken to heart, and used to better ourselves as we all continue on our paths of personal and professional growth.

I would once again, like to extend my heartfelt gratitude to all who were involved in saving my life. I sincerely appreciate everybody’s comments and concern for my health and well being. Rest assured, I am living with an even fuller love and appreciation for life than ever before, and will be back in the water soon.

Love, light, and an abundance of beauty and barrels to you all in the coming year,


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  • Kahuna Kaylor

    Wise beyond his age, more class than anyone on the Forbes List and a guy who has priorities right–that is a surfer and a person that our young should look up to and emulate.
    Way to be a great man Mr. Long…
    Much aloha your way and all of us in Dana Point wish you a Mele Kalikimaka and a wonderful year ahead for you.

  • Rich

    The future of our sport is bright!

  • BUFU

    Well said. Hopefully he recovers soon and is back in the water inspiring many.

  • Chris

    Didn’t see the video , but just reading about you’re experience was eye opening …. The first thing I thought was that isn’t the FIRST rule when surfing big waves was “never take the first wave” of a set ? Just “in case” something like this happens …. Anyway , glad to see that you’ll make a full recovery !!!! ALOHA !!!!

  • greg

    I read Greg’s first comments and waited for the truth about how he really felt. It is an amazing man that masters the art of forgiveness and gets on with surfing and life. God has blessed us all with those who walk among us like Greg Long.

  • Luis

    Best to all next year and happy new year..!!

  • Steve Senko

    No death’s occurred, let’s all be thankful that we are not mourning the loss of another great !….Eddie would Go !

  • chris is a fag

    fuck you chris, go post shit on an outside magazine forum you fucking pussy. you obviously dont know shit about shit, cause the first wave of a set is always the best one. bitch

  • #8

    Hey number 8, chris might be a pussy but you are an dumb asshole. What if theres some wind on it? First wave of the set cleans it up some more for the second one. What if you are surfing a jetty and you need the backwash from the first wave to make the second wave wedge. What if the tide is a little high and the first wave is needed to clear out some of that water so the second wave can suck off the reef better? Don’t be a dick

  • #8

    a* dumb asshole

  • wow

    chris is right

  • 92007

    Mr. Long, you are one classy mo-fo . Well put, and thanks for restoring my faith in professional surfing. Be safe and keep charging!

  • Johnboy

    Whether its the first or last wave of any set, if the wave looks good you charge it!!!

  • Vaca

    Hey number 8, its clear you have never surfed big waves…the 1st wave is not the best wave, its usually not clean…so please, shut up.

  • HealingForce

    He fought a battle out there that 99.99% of people wouldn’t have won. All of his life came to that moment Probly one of the heaviest things any surfer ever had to deal with and as a true Hero ( waterman) he saved himself only his body gave out not his Heart. Respect for A true Hero of the Sea and a gentleman we can all be inspired by!

  • phxcoastie

    As a Coast Guardsman who is stationed in SD and good friends with the crew who flew out to hoist Greg off a boat in 30ft plus swells; I have to say he is a hell of a guy. He really stepped up to thanking our guys for pulling his ass out, and they were even invited to the Billabong XXL awards in Anaheim which they attended. Greg thanked them and they received a standing ovation.
    The dude was humble, professional, and brave during the entire 2 hour ordeal till the helo landed back at the CG base. The fact that he extended his gratitude by inviting a military aircrew to attend the XXL awards even further solidified my respect for him. I’ve been shaken by getting cleaned up at Black’s on a long period, six foot swell. The dude has balls to paddle into Cortez. He’s got my props.