Life is good at the Matix/DVS house. Hell, everything is good when Pipe is in your backyard, even if it isn’t breaking because of the sand buildup over the reef.
It’s been a lot of up and down when referring to the waves. Overhead one day, knee high the next morning, 20 feet that same afternoon, then back to just overhead a day later. Everyone has really been hyping this upcoming swell, but who is actually ready for it?
I’ll tell you Alex Gray sure seems like he is. On the big day when Sunset was completely closing out the channel, Alex paddles out solo at Pipe after getting pounded trying to make it out at Off the Wall. He then proceeds south west to the lineup outside Rockpiles. Take note that it was completely bombing, 30 minutes before dark, not one other person surfing between Haleiwa and Sunset, and a rain storm was on it’s way in.
Alex caught a couple bombs before navigating his way in through some of the most dangerous shorebreak you could imagine. I rewarded him with and ice cold Bud Light on his walk back to the Volcom house.
Gabe Kling’s ankle seems to be solid after finally getting surgery a month and a half ago.. He might be favoring it when launching big airs and all that, but it’s good to see him back in the water laying down some serious power hacks. He will surf in the Pipe Masters. Sucks because this year he was only able to surf the first event, but now he’ll surf the last event.
Other than that it’s been a lot of hanging out, surfing out front and at Rockies, and drinking beers at night (and all day if you’re me). Just living the dream thanks to the folks from Matix. This is awesome.