Letter of the Week

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LOTW runs for seven days, with the week’s most brilliant submissions picked and posted every Monday on surfingmagazine.com. There are two ways to write in: send an email to surfing@sorc.com, or use the Write a Letter tab on our Facebook page.


The repugnant stench of injustice wafts into our office this Tuesday morning via the Letter of the Week. (It should have been posted yesterday, but our servers were downed by a power outage — sorry about that.) And sorry to letter-writer Mark, below.

Letter of the Week: No Aloha

I live in Kailua, Oahu and I have since I was born 17 years ago. I’m not a haole or a tourist, but I don’t have Hawaiian blood so no, scratch that, I guess I am a haole and a tourist and I don’t belong in my own home state. Or at least that’s how it feels sometimes.

I was surfing at Banyans this January (the most exposed and well-known surf break on the Big Island in Hawaii, near many hotels and a mall) and it was really small, so there was only one other person out and almost nobody on the beach. I surfed until almost dark and then came in to wait for my dad to pick me up. I showered off by the water and put my board down for literally 30 seconds while I showered, and when I turned around my board was gone. It was five feet from where I was standing. This isn’t a third world country here that we’re talking about, it’s Hawaii, the 50th state.

Then I saw a local kid standing by the rock wall with my board and I went over to him and said, “Sorry, but can I have my board back?” trying to be polite and not start something. He said, “Brah, that’s not your board. You should get out of here.” He kept saying that while I stood there amazed that he was trying to pull this off: “You should go, brah. You should get out of here now, brah.”

Two of his friends were next to him and one was telling me, “That’s his board, you’re tripping.” One against three I was not going to win, and two of them were bigger than me anyway, so I just left. When my dad came I couldn’t even tell him what happened because I was so mad.

My name is on the stringer: it’s a 6’1” Pyzel with a red deck and it says, “For Mark.” If you see someone riding it on the Big Island, cut him off and give him what he deserves. And don’t come to Hawaii if you want “Aloha spirit.” It left a long time ago.

—Mark from K-Town


So…you put your board down and turned your back — in Hawaii — and are surprised that it got lifted. Really? Hm. Even though…you grew up there? For 17 years? Well, Mark, we suppose tha…seriously, this was surprising to you? Huh.



Thieves burn in the eighth circle of hell, and until then, Mark will be getting a new Creatures of Leisure traction/leash package to soothe the pain of his loss. In time he’ll see that Hawaii is still pretty f—king great.

Moving right along, this week’s LOTW will get a fat box of Hurley gear in honor of the US Open (happening now! live action here).

Aloha kakou!