We went to a barbershop somewhere inland from Huntington for a shoot. I didn’t know the neighborhood, but it felt gangster as anything. We went to do this shoot and 6 guys rocked up in low riders with the full hydraulic setups and they were bouncing all over the place. This was one of the barbers. He looked pretty scary but was cool as shit. I went to get a photo of him and he made Creed do this circle with his hand. We have no idea what it means, but I bet this dude does.
Tyler Warren and a few of his favorite crafts. Tyler is a fun guy to shoot with and an amazingly talented surfer. I like shooting with him cause he knows what he wants and he isn't afraid to do his own thing.
This was at a contest in Sri Lanka. Their civil war had just ended and there was still a bit of a safety problem in parts of the country. The police were hanging around and covering all of us Westerners around the event. It was so mellow and they just hung around all day. That’s the Captain of the police with all his boys behind him.
This is one of the million perfect little right points in Sri Lanka. I didn't see much swell while I was there, but the potential is out of hand.
These guys were sorting the bad grain from the good. They would wait for big afternoon storms to roll in and then jump on this shifty stick tripod and drop the grain. All the bad grain would fly away in the storms wind because it was too light. And the good stuff would pile up on the ground below.
I shot Stephanie Coutts on my first assignment for SURFING Mag. I'd never done a shoot like this and I was pretty nervous. It was super fun and we got some rad photos out of it.
Asher Pacey is one of my favorite surfers and I love shooting with him. I think this was the first time I tried to use a Hasselblad.
This is one of my good buddies Nick Chalmers trying to shape his first board in a tin shed out the back of his place in Byron. I have no idea how the board turned out, but I like the photo.
Connor Coffin, Creed McTaggart and Ryan Callinan running over the hill to check the surf. They inadvertently did a nice pose for the camera. The surf was bad that day, but the vibes were amazing.
Jack Freestone and Mitch Crews in their house. I went over there to chat with them about living together. I think Mitch is laughing about girls and relationships and all that.
This is in my hometown. Not many people visit, but I get so stoked when they do. This wave needs a huuuuge swell and only breaks every few years. When it’s good, you can get really barreled out there. I shot another photo this day and I swear it would have been a keeper, but someone shot a photo earlier on my camera and it double exposed that frame. That’s all part of it though. Maybe it was a shit photo and it's better that I never saw it anyway…
Film is officially dead. No it’s not. Yes it is. Kodak’s done. Wait, now it’s out of bankruptcy. You’re a no-good hipster if you shoot polaroids. You’re a tech-nerd if you’re strictly digital. One has got to be better than the other and you can’t just shoot both.
We can banter on forever about film versus digital. But in reality, people like to talk about how good, bad, hip or slow film is more than they care to actually shoot it. I don’t worry about how much better of a dynamic range film can capture, nor do I care how many more frames my digital body can get me. I was born into the digital age we are immersed in right now, but I’ll still play around with film — simply because it’s fun.
Everything gets stale if you do it too much. Oh what? John John just stuck another 10-foot alley oop? Pfft. Well, maybe not everything, but most things. To me, shooting film is for the sake of variety. I might not shoot my best photos on film, but it’s a good time and it gets me thinking differently. And sometimes, that can lead to great things. —Duncan Macfarlane