This weeks Surfer of the Week: Ryan MooreBefore this week the winter of 2004-2005 was shaping up as one of the worst ever. Now it could be one of the best.
The downpours have stopped, the sun has come out and the surf has come up. More importantly, there’s incredible new tube garden sandbars up and down the California coast. No one knows this better than Ryan Moore. The son of shaper Matt Moore got the wave of his life at Rincon – a ten second tube – on Wednesday. Here’s the story:
SURFING: Let’s get right to it, describe the wave:
Ryan Moore: It was the first real pulse of the swell and there was this sandbar near the Rivermouth that was so thick and fast it was almost unmakeable. It got this wave and pulled straight in and started pumping. I was screaming at the top of my lungs to call people out of it, but one guy started to go and it put me on the foamball. Then I just got deeper and deeper and I heard people hooting and it just kept going. I finally came out in the Cove.
SURFING: Was it the best barrel you’ve ever had at Rincon?
Ryan Moore: Yeah. Usually it’s easy to get shallow barrels there, but I’ve never gotten so many deep ones.
SURFING: Did anyone get it on video?
Ryan Moore: I heard that my friend Ryan Perry did but I haven’t seen it yet.
SURFING: Have you ever seen it that good at Rincon before?
Ryan Moore: No, I’ve never seen anything like that. I never seen that much sand by the Rivermouth. My Dad said the only time he’s ever see in like that was in 1969. It had been a long winter, but I think the fact that there weren’t any waves really held the sand in and then when the river flushed out it just settled so perfect.
SURFING: Was it like the Superbank out there?
Ryan Moore: Yeah. Totally.
SURFING: Is it still good?
Ryan Moore: Now it’s more refined. It’s not doubling up so much, but it’s really good. It’s still good today.
SURFING: You’re out there.
Ryan Moore: Yep.
SURFING: Thanks, Ryan. Congratulations on your wave and congratulations for being surfer of the week.
Ryan Moore: Thank you. It’s an honor.