Tsunami Lay Day

posted by / News / February 28, 2010

Parko-roni gets all the best waves to himself. He is god and king, here. But no matter. Everyone will get washed to sea.

Parko-roni gets all the best waves to himself. He is god and king, here. But no matter. Everyone will get washed to sea.

Words By Chas Smith; Photos By Nate Lawrence

Sometimes lay days are called because of no surf. Sometimes they are called because of lousy tides. Sometimes bad wind, sometimes too much swell, sometimes too much fickle swell. And sometimes they are called because a giant earthquake in Chile is sending a deadly tsunami straight toward the Gold Coast. Tsunami lay day.

This news floats through my open glass door, through the living area (passing around vodka bottles and over stray Australian dollar bills), through my bedroom and into mine ear. “Tsunami warning. Today is Sunday, February 28 and the contest has been called. Next call is tomorrow at 6:30 am. Monday March 1” the loudspeaker says. I roll over and think about eggs benedict, Bloody Marys, and the drowning deaths of not so innocent Gold Coast locals. Last night was Friday. I know they are not so innocent.

Nate Lawrence and I gather our things, leave the apartment and drive toward the main Coolangatta waterfront drag. 15ish story high modern apartment buildings and hotels mingle with 4ish story pre-war cement boxes. There is a wave out front called Greenmount. Today it is a fun little beachbreak. But when the superbank is working, it is simply a section of the 4 minute miracle. Small Asian tourist children splash near the sand wearing Hello Kitty floaties. They will be swept out to sea with the rest of the sluts and naughty boys.

We find our eggs benedict but without Blood Mary. I still don’t understand Australia, completely. Australians pride themselves on drunken rowdiness, but most restaurants are BYO. The waitress looks at me like I am mad when I order an extra spicy one with two celery stalks.

Afterward, we wander past a Mick Fanning’s Rip Curl shop, a mumTAJ Indian restaurant and a pizza joint that serves Parko-roni pizza. Surfers are king here. Less famous than Pamela Anderson, but way more famous than Yasmine Bleeth. Pictures of mostly Joel but also Mick, Bede, Dingo are everywhere. Windows, billboards, paintings on walls. Everywhere.

Yet none of these famous Gold Coast surfers are eating or not drinking alcohol. Even though it is a lay day and sunny. Even though they could be passed out in puddles of  warm vomit or cuddling with gorgeous blondes, they are all over the hill at Duranbah, D Bah, surfing 2-3 foot crowded Sunday peaks.

They might be washed out to sea along with sluts, naughty boys and Asian children. Tsunami lay days are dangerous things.

Tsunamis can kill, destroy, maim and maybe give a little tummy ache (if eaten on a Sunday night).

Tsunamis can kill, destroy, maim and maybe give a little tummy ache (if eaten on a Sunday night).

Some day I will have my own surf magazine. It will be called, "Chas Smith's Surfing."

Some day I will have my own surf magazine. It will be called, "Chas Smith's Surfing."

Parko-roni can also maybe give a little tummy ache (if eaten with Nate Yeomans).

Parko-roni can also maybe give a little tummy ache (if eaten with Nate Yeomans).

MumTAJ serves the best saag paneer alongside super hot backside methods.

MumTAJ serves the best saag paneer alongside super hot backside methods.

On the Gold Coast you can either order off the menu or off Occy's board. Surf mad!

On the Gold Coast you can either order off the menu or off Occy's board. Surf mad!

Over the hill at D Bah, Bede flies above the crowds. An old man shoots his board at a young girl nearby.

Over the hill at D Bah, Bede flies above the crowds. An old man shoots his board at a young girl nearby.

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  • http://abstractlines.tv Russo

    looks fun over there. Here is what I have been up to boys. http://www.vimeo.com/9818541

  • Tom

    WHO CARES ABOUT SNOWBOARDING

  • chilean

    I´m from chile and woke up saturday to the gnarliest quake ever. It was the heaviest thing i have experienced.

    Actually the tsunami did hit chilean coasts, destroying EVERYTHING on its path. The government said there were no risk of tsunami. There are over 700 dead as of today, most of them from the tsunami wave. Be thankful you were warned as they were not.

    Hope the contest goes smooth.