IT SEEMS LIKE YOU ENJOY DOING THINGS YOU’RE NOT SUPPOSED TO DO.
I think I just like to keep change happening to keep my mind occupied.
WHAT, DO YOU GET BORED EASILY OR SOMETHING?
Yes, definitely. Waves that I don’t like to surf bore me. Not surfing enough, or surfing too much, playing guitar too much — all that makes me bored. You get bored of drinking just beers. Like, I’ve been drinking so many beers, I want to NOT drink them now. But I feel like I look at other people and I think they totally got their shit sorted and I wonder if people think the same way about me.
DO YOU FEEL LIKE YOU DON’T HAVE YOUR SHIT TOGETHER?
Not even close, sometimes!
EVEN THOUGH YOU WENT THROUGH THAT WHOLE”F--K THE WSL” THING AND GOT FINED, YOU WATCH HEATS RIGHT? WHY HAVE PEOPLE BOXED YOU INTO THE GUY THAT DOESN’T GIVE A SHIT ABOUT CONTESTS?
Look, it was never about f--k the comps or f--k the guys in the comps, I’ve always watched the heats; it was more just about how f--king corpo they’ve made it. I mean, I suppose it works, but it’s kind of funny. The other day when Wilko won Bells, I was like, “Where’s his beer? Get him a beer!” That’s what I’d be hoping one of my friends handed me if I won a comp. But he was straight into the interview room to get interviewed, and right past the crowd…”