There’s nothing unique about SURFING going to Indonesia with a group of pro surfers.
But that’s OK, because this time it’s all about showcasing high performance surfing as it happens, rather than hoarding everything on hard drives for months at a time. And that is unique, at least to us, because we’ve never done it this way before. You’ve heard of the theory of six degrees of separation, right? That everyone and everything is six or fewer steps away from any other person in the world? Well someone came up with that a long time back and it probably needs some rethinking. Nowadays our world has shrunk from six steps to one swipe, and everything is being shared and discussed right away. Nobody wants to wait. For anything. If you look at social media you probably even heard Yago Dora had a mental session at a left reef this morning. And now, you can see it in his Whippin’ Work edit, live on our site right now.
SURFING has always been about the best surfing in the world. We’ve spent 50 years nudging the performance needle forward, and this — the first SURFING Factory — is our latest attempt at it. So far, it’s working. The idea that at the end of each day we’re releasing (rather than holding) the best surfing that happens is a motivator unlike any I’ve witnessed on a surf trip. There’s no “waiting for tomorrow” to get clips. It’s all about right now.
Yesterday, Yadin’s session freaked Eric out and he started pressing hard mid morning. I watched Eric as he watched Yadin get tubed and then stick a kerrupt, and he took off on the very next set and called out a “Bruce Irons straight air” before he even got to his feet. Next wave, he launched a corked out flip. The wave after, a full rotation alley oop. Unfortunately, no dice on any of them. When a dude dropped in on him a few minutes later, Eric went into full meltdown mode. Snapping on himself. “I haven’t seen him get like this in a long time,” Evan told me in the lineup. “But I’ve never seen him want it this bad.”
After only a few days the bar has been set high, and with the way things are progressing, the shit that Eric nearly landed yesterday will likely be landed today. Or, at the very least, by tomorrow.
And the best part is you won’t have to wait to see any of it. — Zander Morton