Andy Irons Surfs Because…

- Shares

When I was young I surfed:

because Kelly Slater did it…
because it was hyped…
because it got chicks…
because it was the party…
because it got the cool car…

I surf now:

because it’s all about the feeling I get from riding that wave…
because surfing is the only thing that keeps me going…
because I have the will…
because I am always a better person when I come in….

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