Photo: Scotty Hammonds
It’s Monday morning and we aren’t hungover, but all it takes is a glance at the ocean to know we should be. Exactly a week ago — thanks to Tai Graham and Single Fin (the best Sunday scene ever) — we woke up groggy and Keramas was absolutely firing. Sacrifice never fails.
Yesterday we stayed far away from the temptation of doing it over again (as Corey Wilson puts it, “because it’s the most fun, and I won’t come home”), as the waves were meant to turn back on today and we didn’t want to waste another morning. Instead we watched movies, went to bed at 9 and woke up rested at 6. And the waves are flat. Which makes sense, really — sacrifice never fails.
Today we say goodbye to Yadin, Evan and Yago and welcome Chippa, Conner and Wilko. Eric stays a few more days and when the new swell shows up on Thursday, so will Mick Fanning. And, to be absolutely sure that Mick and this bombing swell arrive, we’ll make sure to get back over to Single Fin for another big night on Wednesday. As Corey puts it, it’ll be the “most fun” sacrifice.
But today, since the waves are small, I took a few minutes to sit down with our first crew for a few words on their way out of the house. — Zander Morton
Evan: How’s your Snapchat this morning Yadin? Just the words “shut up” with Eric playing guitar in the background.
[Eric is still strumming his guitar. He looks up]
Eric: What? Me? Damnit, Yades, you’re supposed to shout me out on Instagram, I need followers. [laughs]
Yadin: What are you talking about, that flip you did the other day will make you famous.
SURFING: Speaking of that flip, how’s it been seeing your clips go up online as they were happening this last week?
Eric: Well if you’re kooking it you’re not too stoked. [laughs]
Yadin: When you see your buddies get clips it’s sick, but it’s so annoying when you’re not getting them. It’s the same as if you’re holding onto the footage, but here you don’t want to be the guy without anything at the end of the day. Especially when the waves are pumping.
Evan: Exactly. On this trip people knew if we were bogging.
SURFING: Does that add any extra pressure?
Yadin: Nah. If it’s not me getting clips one day it’ll be a Yago, if it’s not Yago it’ll be Lark [Eric’s nickname], and if it’s not Lark it’ll be Gold. [Evan’s nickname].
Evan: It’s just been fun to surf with everyone.
Yadin: There ya go Evan, just round it out. It’s just great to be here, it’s just so much fun, I just love all these guys so much…
Evan: Oh my god this is the ‘CT coming out in Yades. This is his ‘CT awards speech. [laughs]
Yadin: You know these three just inspire me to get better every single day.
[Laughs all around]
Eric: There’s so much crazy shit happening in surfing right now. Last night I went online and watched our edit, and then watched a bunch of other edits, and it’s overwhelming.
Yadin: There’s almost too much out there. But everything’s changed. Like with what we’re doing with this, people just want to see content. They can’t get enough.
Eric: Coming from the East Coast I’ve always loved watching video, because we never saw that level of surfing around home. With video I just hope to stoke kids out — make them want to have a good time. I don’t know if I did that on this trip but hopefully [laughs].
Evan: You only had that one meltdown.
Yadin: It’s all about the kids, man [laughs]. Nah, but it really is.
Yago: I think, it’s just, you get stoked if people like your surfing.
SURFING: With all the video online, kids from everywhere know where the current level of surfing stands, and they can go out and try to emulate it. I think that’s why you see so many good 13-year-old kids these days.
Yago: A couple years ago people outside of Brazil only really knew who Gabriel was, but now there’s Filipe and all the other young kids and they definitely watch all the video. I know I do.
Yadin: And then the waves you guys get in Brazil are nonstop. You can catch 50 waves a session when I might go out and catch 10. I’m way older than Filipe but he’s probably caught just as many waves in his life as me. [laughs] But I guess it’s like that for you guys over in Florida, too.
Evan: Yeah we catch like 100 waves a session in Smyrna.
Eric: I just love when we get a bunch of chances to try new stuff. Like, I saw Meola pull that 540 the day we got here [to Indo], and I’m like shit, I want to pull a 540. I always want to keep up with everything.
Yadin: You only got a few more days Eric! Better get to work.
Eric: I know. Shit. [Eric has, however, landed a backflip]
Yadin: Just stay. You see that swell for the weekend? It looks insane.
Eric: Yeah, but I gotta leave. I’m going to Jamaica with Vissla on the 32nd.
[Laughs all around]
Yadin: Dude, I think you’re already there.