By Nathan Myers
“It’s International Surfing Day,” I tell a local friend in the lineup this morning.
“Where?” he says.
“Everywhere,” I reply. “Internationally.”
“What should I do?” he asks.
“You’re already doing it,” I say.
Yes, we are creating a holiday. We’re stapling it to the forehead of Father’s Day and playing footsie with International Skateboarding Day under the table. Six years in, it ain’t exactly easy…but it ain’t exactly hard either.
Here in Indonesia, people have a hard time remembering ISD and an easy time celebrating it. After a week of pumping 10-foot swell and a capacity crowd of super pros, this morning’s 4- to 6-foot waves felt like a day off.
After a mellow morning surf tickled by early trades, I shared breakfast with Craig Anderson and a crew of his friends from South Africa. They’d all just come home from a trip to an off-island “secret” and were licking their wounds from the reef. “Think we’re taking the day off,” said Ando. “Regrouping. Then head somewhere else for this next swell.”
Yes, there’s more swell on the way. What would you expect?
Apparently, the only thing to eat at the break where they were last week was club sandwiches. Now they’re back, and what’s the first thing they order? Ando and Friends: club sandwich sandwich club. PHOTO: Myers