Darren is the first of many friends I met in PR. He lives in Rincon and is by far the best surfer there. He still flies under the radar a little because all the photos get shot up north. I stayed at his house for my first-ever photo trip and it was classic. I got love for Rincon.
There’s not many lefts on the northwest coast of PR so any chance the goofies get to go frontside they froth. Brian, Wesley Toth and Jacob Cruz go nuts at this wave but, normally it’s one of the worst waves you can surf.
There are so many psycho chargers from PR. Carlos Cabrero, Otto Flores, Juan Ashton, Joe Suarez, Jorge Iglesias, Dylan/Josie Graves, the Bursians, Gaby Escudero, Chino, Jake Cruz, Brian/Wesley Toth… There’s too many to name and this photo shows why–they get huge waves. This is Ale about to get cleaned up at Table Rock during one of the bigger swells I’ve seen in the Atlantic.
I lived with Gieger for a while and he’s one of the funniest, most progressive thinking, awesome people I’ve ever met. This photo was shot in 2005 and he was already doing huge indy grabs. No one besides him even thought to try these on a surfboard. His family owns Surf Zone, on top of the hill, at Surfer’s Beach. It’s a rad shop.
This is the biggest barrel I’ve ever seen at Gas Chambers. Normally, there’s boogies dropping in on everyone but no one besides Dylan wanted a piece of this thing. The wave breaks about 10-20 yards in front of a jagged cliff, with hellish backwash slamming you at any given moment.