Surfing is said to be peaceful. It isn’t.
We, as surfers, are often perceived as a culture of individuals who drink matte tea while driving exactly the speed limit in a Volvo on the way to the beach to unite oneself with sand, sun and sea before returning to said 2007 Volvo and shipping off to one’s favorite zany breakfast bar where they play the Bob Marley Sirius station all day every Saturday. It ain’t like that.
It’s more like war. We invade the ocean and if our timing is off, the ocean annihilates us. Case in point above. The photo looks so pretty, so peaceful, so matte tea — until you actually look at what’s actually happening. Ah, real surfing. It mirrors real life. It keeps us all coming back for more. And it’s what keeps every Bob Marley breakfast bars forever failing their two year lease.