It’s been a while since Southern California last looked like this. Too long, probably. The start of the winter featured week after week after pathetic week of below-average waves, with an overhyped mirage of a swell always sitting so distantly on the horizon. It was purely brutal. Like Chinese water torture, too much exposure to waist high surf can drive even the most stable mind insane. Then the streak was snapped. The curse was lifted.
Finally, a swell had enough sass to make it to the SoCal shore. Everybody south of Point Conception rejoiced, and everyone south of Point Conception went surfing. Everybody. Everywhere. Hoards and throngs and mobs of people occupied the finally worthwhile lineup. It. Was. Crowded. But that’s no reason to fret.
A very wise person once said, “Sharing is caring.” Odds are, that person wasn’t a scholar or a philosopher. She was probably a preschool teacher — but boy was she a sweetheart. Spot on, too. Sharing is the most genuine way to show affection to those around us, which leads us to this photo of Dane Reynolds at Rincon. Are you looking at it? Can you see what’s going on?
Let’s all quit playing that tired, “Dane doesn’t care!” card. Sharing is caring and guess what? Dane Reynolds fucking cares. —Brendan Buckley