This is the alleyway behind Rob's house in Cardiff. Always got to have some coffee before a surf check.
Rob's surf van is really old and looks like a little sketchy — some of us joke and call it the kidnapping van — but it's perfect to go surfing. And it's a staple in the Seaside parking lot.
Here's Rob in his van getting suited up and deciding which board he'll ride.
I shot a series of these and this one felt like a cool off-moment. He's kind of got a little Bob Marley thing going right now.
Mother Seaside doing her thing. And you can see the Rob Machado foundation poster in the foreground. It's a project he did with the town to put new trashcans all along the beach. It's had a big impact; the beaches are a lot cleaner.
Rob describes what that last wave did.
This is Rob's Motorboat Too from Channel Islands. It's a little pocket rocket and he rides it so well.
Rob's getting ready to paddle out. It's hard to recognize him with the hood on — until the second he pops up.
I shot the action with a century 1000 lens from across the highway to get a different perspective of Seaside. I told Rob that I wanted to see some turns and he went out and lit it up!
He's so strong and so skinny, so he gets into waves absurdly early and just rolls on into them. Then he does this.
There's always someone up and riding at Seaside, but Rob's the boss. It's always fun to watch him surf, but he really lit it up this morning.