Last Friday was probably the brightest of its many days – making it clear once and for all that six weeks in the fall does not make up a North Shore season. Ace SURFING photog Daniel Russo was there to capture it all, and gave us a little synopsis of the day.
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With Buoy One still out of commission, it’s been nice wondering what each swell will do. The day started out consistent with 6 ft A-frames focusing on first reef. Everyone still recuperating from the last good swell, and the lineup was fairly empty. Healey, Flynn Novak, Kalani Chapman and Feddy P were on it early.
As each hour passed by, the swell kept its consistency and picked up to 8-10 ft. The winds went to light easterlies and sky became as blue as the ocean. When the sand builds over the reef at pipe with small north swells and then you get a big west the reef gets exfoliated and the water becomes as clear as it can get.
With the absence of Reef Mcintosh, Danny Fuller and Makua Rothman there was plenty of opportunity to get the wave of your life. Brazilian Danilo Couto did get one of the waves of the day and also got a bad sinus infection for his efforts. He caught it from second reef made a couple turns down the line and then backdoored a tapped-out first reef section that could have fit the entire line up in it.
The sandbar was making for some great second and third sections. Evan Valier got one of those and the beach erupted. As the day grew shorter the swell kept its consistency the afternoon light put on a green room display of power and beauty. And when the sun finally set the sea breeze kicked in and the swell lost its strength it was time to share stories from a great day.