DJ: A lot of the time you are so fixated on what you are doing, trying to get water shots or whatever else, that you don’t have time to do anything else. This was during the contest and I was just running all over the beach trying to get as many angles as I could. Then I was at the O’Neill house and one of the kids was like, “Today would be a sick day from up above.” I thought, “Yeah, you’re right.” So I grabbed my backpack and ran up the hill behind Sunset Elementary School — I’d found a pig trail back there about eight or nine years ago — and when I got up there, all cut up by vines and whatever else on the way, the waves ended up turning on.
I just wanted to show the whole picture of the way a wave comes in on Third Reef and bends. It starts over at OTW, bends around and unloads on First Reef. Not too many sets were doing it, but this one did. Normally it’s just action up front and you don’t get to see the way it comes through that canyon and over those reefs. There are different spots that guys use, different trails, but this is looking directly over Pipe. I shot this with a 24mm because it was a beautiful day and I just wanted to show Hawaii and the beauty of the whole place, not just the water.