This time, we’re back in Florida for one of the most anticipated tropical swells in years. Feels good to be in the home state. You appreciate it so much more when you’re away for a while. Shitty drivers, hectic rain squalls, Bobcats running across the road, dudes wearing jellyfish-repellent suits for surfing, Country music stations encouraging people who didn’t know there was a hurricane to go to the beach and paddle out… The list of epic Florida-style things goes on.
Alek Parker and I both thought today would be a wash but we figured we may as well head south where the wind will turn offshore first. Reports of the swell are mixed and the spots we checked in Palm Beach were side-shore and only about head-high. No more than 10 minutes later we pulled up to Lake Worth Pier to see 10-foot sets breaking a half-mile out to sea. One of the weirdest things I’ve ever witnessed, watching a swell jump up that fast. Even if you had a PWC, it wasn’t rideable, so we drove south until we found a beach that looked manageable.
The sun crept out, the wind clocked more and more west, and Alek got a fun solo session right before dark.
We picked up Oliver Kurtz from the airport on his way back from ECSC, hit Hooters for dinner and we’ll be up early tomorrow hoping for the best. Conditions are looking flawless. —Jimmicane