The Entire Ocean Beach

Thirty six hours in San Francisco

All photos by Jimmicane

That’s what it feels like — the entire ocean. Pushing against you when you’re paddling out. On top of you after falling. Cascading over you as you pull into a cold, wide cavern. The latter is why we endure the former, even though the odds are against us. These photos from the last couple of days tell a story of perfection, but that story is a lie. The truth is aching shoulders, burning lungs and swallowed sea water. It’s watching perfect ones down the beach and being just out of position. It’s 30-minute paddle outs and deciding whether to sprint for a slim chance to make it to the shoulder, or accept defeat, and save your breath. The truth is that only a handful of guys were in rhythm this swell. Damien Hobgood was one of those guys. While swimming in after breaking my leash, I watched him air drop into a bowly right, bottom turn and crack a lip that carried the weight of an entire ocean behind it. It flicked him off like a mosquito. -Taylor Paul

Mike Gleason and Damien Hobgood, optimistic.

Austin Smith-Ford in a case of the Mondays.

Happy hour.

A quick reminder that the surfer closest to the peak of the wave, or in the barrel, has the right of way. Damien Hobgood and some tech nerd.

One of thousands that got away.

Damien Hobgood and the “WTF?” moment of Monday morning. The photo doesn’t do this turn justice.

The guy that straightened out is going to wear the rest of that set on the head and end up closer to the beach than the lineup. There’s a 90 percent chance he’ll call it a day.

Mike Gleason and the one that makes it all worth it.

A-frame for effort. Damien Hobgood, in rhythm.

City or sea? Damien Hobgood chooses wisely (on the left).


Fall > all.

If you paddled out to OB today, you’d see Bianca Valenti. She also surfs Maverick’s.

What are the odds that someone’s having sex in one of those houses down there?

Probably better than the odds of Lewis Samuels getting through the back of the wave.

This is how date nights go bad.

Well played, sir.

Wonderwall, ft. Lewis Samuels.

Here’s Damien again. Told you he was in rhythm.

Damo was everywhere, really.

Emily Ratajkowski’s got nothin’ on these blurred lines.

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