This was about a month ago. There are definitely two types of surfers in this world. Grinders that just take off on anything and catch 300 waves a session, and guys that wait for that one wave that will either make or break their session. This is an unknown soldier on the grind.
Oh man, Flame would have been proud this day. Creek was super north so the waves bent at you and allowed for a good session of shooting with my 50mm lens. To shoot with a 50mm lens you have to take a lot of waves on the head, at least for beachbreaks. I have a 9-5 office job, so I was a little rusty but I got this one of Cole Moody doing his best Chris Billy impression down at gravels.
Jake Halstead burning one bright
Ron Stoner used to shoot this angle of Blacks 60 years ago. It’s all been done.
Two guys sharing a ride in after sunset at Blacks.
Joel was riding some log out at Blacks this day and was cranking it around like it was some 5’10” shortboard. The control that guy has over everything he rides is ridiculous.
Dillon Perillo, somewhere north of Pismo. This beachbreak was f–ked. Huge elephant seals, a massive 30-foot whale, and a good left coming off it. Tom Carey’s motto is “Don’t drive away from good waves,” but we drove away after walking down onto the beach for a closer look.
Geoff Brack at Salt Creek. He still surfs more than 90% of the pros. This day everyone was just watching Brack. He was getting the best of the bunch for sure.
Kelly paddled out right at sunset this day. Some drunken chick that I was talking to for hours saw Kelly, freaked and went down and asked for his autograph, absolutely losing her shit.
This was “the session”. Newly acquired senior photographer Corey Wilson and I went down to meet Kolohe at creek. Corey’s water angles from this day are ridiculous. Print worthy stuff. Mine, all for online now!
Nat, Dillon, Oliver, Tom Carey, myself and some others went to explore waves south of SF.
Nat Young, after driving 200 miles this day we ended up surfing OB San Francisco. It was damn good, but I think the boys had so much coffee and bagels that everyone was off this session. The sequence of this turn is crazy, but he didn’t quite pull it.
Nat Young doing an indy grab at the lane. Super corked. Not sure if anyone has done a corked indy three in an event yet.
Nathan Zoller, our newly acquired Associate Editor working hard.
Oliver Kurtz, Euro-dressed in Big Sur.
Dillon Perillo playing checkers.
Rincon, crowded as ever.
Salt Creek, just a mirage.
Some of the best barrels this winter at Blacks weren’t the lefts, they were the rights.
Lucas Dirkse at Bigrock. He’s another amazing prodigy of Joel Tudor. Lucas surfs everything incredibly well.