It looked fake.
Brownish-green water moving across the Pacific, alive, slowly taking the shape of a mound, then a wall, then a building and finally collapsing and exploding into itself with the fury of all hell. It was nature at its absolute finest. Maverick’s.
Today will be remembered by anyone who surfed or witnessed the California giant. The wind was kind to us all day long and the swell was very present. It seemed to be the perfect size to hit the bowl and hit it right — it was slabbing out there. And not just in a hey, that big wave kind of barreled! way but in a holy shit I just saw the ocean’s tonsils way. Words might never do some of those waves justice. And They’ll definitely never do that ledge justice.
Images might though.
Here’s a selection of some of the best moments from Mav’s today. Enjoy them in all their surrealistic goodness.