Riding big waves is very scary.
So scary that oftentimes, even the best surfers in the world adopt the “survival stance”. This is when all semblances of style and grace go out the window — knees bow, backs hunch — and the only thing the rider cares about in the whole entire world is his mere survival. This doesn’t happen to Brett Burcher.
In the above clip, Brett demonstrates unreasonable tranquility in the stickiest of situations. When a 6×20 foot lip is falling within a club’s length of your noggin, it would be easy to revert into the Polynesian Power Position, but Brett stays cool as a cucumber and jives his way straight through the catastrophic tunnel. That’s a brave man.