Today wasn’t supposed to happen. Well, in one sense it was — May 30th has been right there on the calendar, sandwiched between the 29th and 31st. But it wasn’t supposed to happen in the sense of our expectations. Today was supposed to be the day. The day the waves would get their shit together. The day we’d finally get barreled. Not the day of wind and rain and a freakishly low afternoon tide and how many times should we check it and scratch our heads? A lot. More than someone with lice.
Chippa Wilson, Eric Geiselman, Conner Coffin and Matt Wilkinson don’t have lice. But they do have an obscene amount of surfing talent and there ain’t no wave on earth that can thwart their ambitions to flare. So they didn’t just weather the storm today. They stormed the weather. Pissing on clouds with turns and bitch-slapping the wind with airs. At one point, a squall tried moving in and Chippa just stood out there on the beach naked, flexing, death-staring, and the squall just went away and turned into a rainbow. It was crazy. Then he went surfing, tried an indy grab and hugged the reef, like, for fun. It was crazier. See that and more in the edit above.
Even though today wasn’t the day, it was still a great day and perfection is just a state of mind anyway, right?